Aquacraft VS1 User Manual Page 16

  • Download
  • Add to my manuals
  • Print
  • Page
    / 20
  • Table of contents
  • BOOKMARKS
  • Rated. / 5. Based on customer reviews
Page view 15
16
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
If you should happen to drip or spill fuel on the fi nish of your
VS1, carefully wipe it off as soon as you can. Some fuels,
especially high nitro fuels and some with special oil additives,
can damage your boat’s fi nish.
Open the radio box and unplug the battery from the switch
harness. Leave the lid off the radio box over night to make
sure any water that might have entered can evaporate.
Clean the exterior of the boat and check the mounting
hardware.
After a few runs and things have had a chance to settle you
are going to have to re-tighten the pull-pull cables leading
to the motor. There is no need to overtighten the cables.
I have found that even a fair amount of slack cannot be
detected when the boat is running.
If you should happen to fl ip your VS1 you are going to need
to remove any water that might have entered the engine.
We recommend removing the glow plug and turn the engine
over a few times by hand to remove water. After most of
the water has been removed, leave the glow plug out and
turn the engine over with the electric starter to expel the
rest of the water. Make sure you hold a rag over the glow
plug hole. NOTE: Be careful to keep your rag and fi ngers
away from the spinning prop. Re-install the glow plug and
start the engine. It is best to start the engine after you have
ipped the boat to make sure ALL THE WATER IS OUT OF
THE ENGINE. It is also a good idea to inspect the radio box
to make sure no water entered the radio compartment.
HULL TUNING TIPS
The major tuning areas of your VS1 are:
Propeller shaft (stub shaft) height
Propeller shaft (stub shaft) angle
Hinge Pin Angle
Center of Gravity (C.G.)
Propeller
Let’s start with propeller shaft height. To simplify, what we
are trying to do with propeller shaft height is to raise the
propeller to a height that gives us the greatest speed with the
least loss in stability. Let’s expand on this.
To measure the height of the shaft most racers use a set
up board. A typical tunnel hull set up board can be a simple
piece of shelf board with a slot cut into one end so the user
can reference the height of the prop to the bottom riding
surface of the sponsons.
Adjusting the shaft height plays a huge part in the speed
as well as the handling of the boat. Typically adjusting the
propeller higher makes the boat run faster but at a greater
risk of blowing off the water (fl ipping over backwards). It
also can cause loss of steering in the corners if set too high.
Lowering the shaft has the opposite effect and makes the
boat more stable but considerably slower. It is also important
to note that having the shaft too low can cause the boat to
stuff or tuck under when going around the corner. Setting
the shaft (prop height) is a very important part of tuning your
boat. It is also good to note that even 1/16" higher or lower
can make or break a good running tunnel boat.
Propeller Shaft Angle: Changing the propeller shaft angle
causes the bow of the boat to either run higher or lower
depending on the angle. What we are trying to accomplish
by changing the shaft angle is to loosen up the boat on the
water to make it go as fast as possible. More positive (+)
shaft angle lifts the bow, causing the boat’s tunnel to capture
more air, hence less drag and more speed. The risk of having
too much positive shaft angle is the possibility of blowing the
boat off the water. Too much negative (–) and the boat will
run too wet. Typical modern R/C tunnel boats run with about
1/2° of negative (–) shaft angle.
Hinge Pin Angle: Not all outboard engine mounting systems
allow you to change the hinge pin angle separately from the
stub shaft angle. It is worth noting, however, that outboard
engines that do have a distinct advantage over the ones that
don’t. Let me explain. When the servo swings your engine
left or right, the stub shaft follows the arc that the hinge
pin has been set at. If you have a positive hinge pin angle,
your stub shaft swings in a positive, neutral, positive motion
( + 0 + ). If your hinge pin angle is set negative, your stub
shaft swings in a negative, neutral, negative motion ( – 0 – ).
It’s important to note this, as the more positive angle the
hinge is set at the higher the bow raises in the corners and
the opposite regarding negative pin angle. These can be a
huge tuning advantage for the way you drive. To adjust the
hinge pin angle you must shim either the top or the bottom of
the engine mount plate from the transom. Also: You are going
to want to avoid engine mounts that set the hinge pin past the
back of the sponsons. Having the pin in front of the sponson
we call under steer and behind the back of the sponsons over
steer. The VS1 likes the pin in the under steer position.
Center Of Gravity (C.G.): The center of gravity “balance” of
your boat is just as important as other adjustments you make.
Adding or removing weight from the front of the boat ultimately
decides the stability of the boat as it fl ies over the top of the
water. The further forward you have the C.G., the more speed
the hull can handle, but like other adjustments to your boat
it comes with a price. As a model tunnel boat operates, the
boat’s ride can become disrupted. Any “acting forces” (i.e. wind,
waves, drag and or acceleration/deceleration) can cause the
boat to lose its balance. A properly set C.G. gives you the best
overall balance regarding all those changing conditions.
Propeller: First and foremost you need to balance or use
a balanced propeller. Not only will this provide the best
performance but it is necessary to avoid damaging your
engine. You can learn more about how to balance your
propeller at www.aquacraftmodels.com
Page view 15
1 2 ... 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Comments to this Manuals

No comments